With bistro dining places all the rage, it takes a lot for one to stand out above the others, but that's the circumstances with the new 211 York in Jenkintown. The name comes from its address, 211 Old York Rd., a half-block north of Summit Avenue.

In a flattering sense, 211 York is a spin-off of Le Bec-Fin . Indeed, owner-chef Timothy E. Papa, his manager and at least two waiters have worked at Philadelphia's premier restaurant.

As you might expect, both cuisine and service are top-rate, and prices are comparatively modest. Moreover, the concept has been clearly developed so that appetizers, entrees and wines seamlessly complement each other.

The seafood-oriented menu is sensibly limited to a dozen appetizers and only 15 entrees, with two or three nightly specials. Dishes made from excellent ingredients sparkle in simple yet sophisticated sauces, hallmarks of fine bistro cuisine. A recent meal was superb.

Mushroom soup (Chef's hallmark recipe) was a strong flavored, slightly grainy mushroom delight lightly touched with cream. Warmed rolls rich in flavor and texture came with a ramekin of sweet butter. Falling-apart-tender sea bass, lightly crusted on top, was served on escarole in white wine-basil-touched broth.

Roast Duck was a leg and five slices of breast meat edged with a tiny bit of crispy fat. Slightly dry in texture, the rich-flavored meat was served on red cabbage in a reduction sauce nicely tangy with vinegar to complement both the duck and cabbage. A glass of French merlot perfectly matched this enjoyable dish.

Mashed potatoes and shoestring potatoes were excellent side dishes.

Fabulous deserts, worth a visit all in themselves, included light-textured, light-chocolate mousse dusted with cocoa and edged with real whipped cream. Melt-in-your-mouth crème fraiche cheesecake was draped with wonderfully tart lemon curd.Tart tatin, the French upside-down apple pie, was paper thin slices of juicy, tangy apples on flake crust, also garnished with shipped cream. Luscious-beyond-belief crème brulee was capped with delicate caramelized sugar.

A mug of strong Le Columbe de-caffeinated coffee ($1.45) came with packets of artificial sweeteners and a little pitcher of liquid sugar, a classy touch.

Impeccable team service was knowledgeable, friendly and so attentive that dishes and flatware were removed instantly. Indeed, the moment I put my swizzle stick on the table, I was startled by an unseen waiter's arm reaching around a corner to remove it.

Simple-yet-elegant décor. Glass block walls are at either end of the long, narrow room. Saucer-shaped sconces on light-tan walls throw light upward toward the high, semi-industrial ceiling and a bare hardwood floor enhances the minimalist decorative theme. A contemporary bar wrapped in copper faces a warm, old-brick wall.

Tables are minimally set with white cloths and napkins, and have bistro-style chairs with beautiful mauve fabric seats.

Appropriately for the upscale setting, most male patrons wore a tie and jacket, a rarity in these days of casual dining.

My wife and I went out last night for our 1st weddding anniversary at 211 YORK in Jenkintown. I heard that the chef formerly was a chef at Le Bec Fin so my expectations were fairly high.

This was one of the best meals and experiences either of us have had in years in any restaurant whether its in Philly or the suburbs.

The wait staff were very sociable, friendly and helpful without being overbearing or a nuisance. We felt like we had our own personal butlers for the evening.

The menu was very traditional and had just enough choices for everyone. The prices ranged from $18 to $30 for the entrees and there were also a few appetizer choices, as well that were moderately priced. I had one of the specials for the evening which was the 16 oz Rib Eye lightly seasoned and with its own natural juices as a sauce and was prepared medium well. This was possibly one of the best and most flavorful steaks I have ever had.

I also ordered the mashed potatoes and when I ask if they were prepared any special way my waiter replied "No, They are just done right." I couldnt have said it better myself. Just enough salt,pepper and butter and as fluffy and smooth as you could ever hope for. These were the best mashed potatoes I have ever had. My wife agrees as she had some of mine as they gave me a huge helping of them.

We also shared an appetizer of crab ravioli in a tomato pesto sauce that was also fabulous. No filler at all. Just real jumbo lump crab meat and scallop.

And while I can't directly speak for my wife she definitely seemed to enjoy her scallops au gratin entree as well.

We shared creme brulee for dessert and it was scrumptous. Also one of the best creme brulees we have ever had.

A great dining experience that I highly recommend you pursue!!!

This is a bright spot on the usually dull canvas of the northern suburbs. The cheerful, bright décor and friendly waitstaff are two factors in bringing in crowds from the neighborhood-yuppie couples and more mature patrons alike. Another factor is the food, which consists of interesting soups and salads, grilled fish, grilled chicken, steak, even a fettuccine with wild mushrooms, all at neighborhood friendly prices. Desserts are good too, especially a non-cliché chocolate mousse.

AOL Member comments:

From mattmare2001
Excellent food and service! we went their for our 1st wedding anniversary last night and couldnt ask for a better experience. We will definitelty making this an anniversary tradition!!

From Malam37
Just returned from a wonderful dinner. Excellent food; creatively presented; served by informative, pleasant waiters. It was our first visit, but will not be our last.

From DrillSgt78
Surprisingly well prepared food and attentive service. Portions were sizable and prices were very reasonable. A real find.

From Bachgirl
One of the best restaurants in the Philadelphia area. We eat there often. Both the food and the service are consistently excellent!

From GORDOS33
Excellent food and excellent service. We have repeatedly eaten here and will continue to do so. Kudos to all!

From Rolpher
Absolutely fantastic experience. Great menu, small but every item to perfection. service A+. Wine list second to none and well priced.

From GENE
FROM BEGINNING TO END THE EXPERIENCE AT 211 WAS OUTSTANDING

From Sharon
I have had the pleasure of eating at 211 twice, each time a special occassion. The menu is shallow, but consistently well done. The portions are very appropriate. The two times I dined, I had fish specialities. The crab cake was a large and succulant portion, with a very delicate sauce. ... The deserts are delicious, and worth breaking a diet. Both times I ordered the creme bruelle which comes in a casserole. The warm apple tort I tasted was also delicious. While the menu is narrow, the quality of the experience, coupled with excellent preparation makes 211 a special occasion unto itself.

From JW
Excellent food & superior service. Well worth the money. Very nice wine selection at very reasonable pricing. Had a Georges Perrier sighting there at my last visit. Must be good!!!

Can You Keep a Secret?

A small intimate space that serves as the perfect foil to simple ingredients prepared to perfection. A small menu that focuses on absolute technique without the distraction of extraneous sauces or presentation.

Recommended Dishes: Seared Scallops, Rack of lamb, Any special, Creme Brulee